Reading Path
How Portuguese kitchens left their mark on Japanese cooking, from the 16th century to today.
Some of Japan's most beloved foods trace their origins to Portuguese kitchens. The linguistic and culinary fingerprints of this exchange remain visible today, from the golden sponge cakes of Nagasaki to the battered delicacies served across the country.
Nine dishes, from castella and tempura to konpeitō and fios de ovos, reconstructed from the earliest Iberian and Japanese cookbooks, with period measurements converted and the historical circumstances of their transmission for each.
A sixteenth-century Portuguese fish-pickling technique, four centuries of dormancy, a postwar restaurant kitchen running out of ideas for leftover chicken breast, and a tartar sauce argument that split a city in two. This is how Japan got its favorite fried chicken.